Prepare for the ascent of a 4000 meters!

With 82 peaks over 4000 meters above sea level, the Alps offer a formidable playground for mountaineering enthusiasts. The Dôme de Neige des Écrins, for example, is an easy race, ideal to start with. Nevertheless, the ascent of a summit of more than 4000 meters is a demanding adventure which requires to be well prepared and equipped. Here are our tips to maximize your chances of reaching the top!

Be Physically Ready For Mountaineering

Launching into a 4000 meters requires, above all, being in good physical condition. The sooner you start preparing for it, the better you will experience the climb on D-Day. In any case, a minimum of two months seems necessary for good physical preparation.

Be Tough

Endurance is one of the main qualities to develop to reach a 4000 m. Walking, running, cycling, swimming… whatever discipline you choose to work on, be diligent. For your  hikes or bike rides , prefer  relatively long outings  (4 to 5 hours) with a  positive elevation  (500 meters at least). If you live in the city and opt for running  or swimming , plan an average of  three sessions per week  , gradually increasing the distances and the pace.

In any case, try to favor outdoor activities as much as possible to  try out your equipment  and avoid unpleasant surprises once in the situation.

Manage Altitude

Doing a 4000 meters also means exposing yourself to the risk of suffering from  acute mountain sickness . The headaches and edema caused can be of variable intensity and severity. By way of prevention, we recommend a few rules of good conduct to facilitate acclimatization:
– do not climb too quickly too high,
– avoid intense efforts at the start of the stay,
– climb high enough to acclimatize before going to very high altitude,
– do not stay too high, too long.

Dress Well

Three Layers To Protect The Upper Body

Technical underwear

To avoid colds, the skin must above all be kept dry. It is therefore important to equip yourself with technical base layers that offer  good breathability . Two possibilities :

• synthetic materials (   such as polyester): hyper-breathable and quick-drying, they are ideal for people who sweat a lot,
• merino wool :   it offers good thermal regulation and better manages odors than synthetic materials, but its drying capacities are less.

The middle layer

This second layer should protect you from the cold. It should be warm and light. Many solutions :

the fleece

Breathable and resistant, the  fleece  is particularly  cozy and comfortable as an intermediate layer . It is versatile and can be used both in effort and in refuge.

the down jacket

The  down jacket  is often ideal in the high mountains to  face low temperatures . In addition to the warmth it provides immediately, its  down  has the advantage of being  light and compressible , essential qualities for launching into a 4000 meter run. Its use is nevertheless more limited than a down jacket made of synthetic fibers (primaloft or coreloft) because even with a hydrophobic treatment, the feathers are less breathable. Prefer synthetic fiber if you have to use your down jacket during exercise.

Whether in feathers or synthetic fibers, down jackets are  designed to be worn under a protective jacket  and do not hinder freedom of movement.

The protective jacketThis third and final layer should effectively protect you against wind and weather. It must therefore be  waterproof ,  windproof  but also  breathable  to wick away perspiration.

Two details deserve your full attention when choosing:

• the hood  : it must be compatible with wearing a helmet
• the cut  : choose a shorter cut at the back to make it easier to wear a harness.

Hiking pants

Choose resistant mountaineering pants   (with Kevlar or Cordera reinforcements at the knees and buttocks),  stretch  (to be comfortable in your movements),  water-repellent  and  breathable . For more comfort and warmth, you can combine it with tights  and   boxers  in  wool or synthetic fibers as underwear.

Be sure to choose pants  that fit around the calves and ankles  so you can easily slip on gaiters over them.

A  waterproof and breathable overtrouser  can also be useful in bad weather.

Mountaineering Shoes

Choosing the right shoes is essential for a race over 4000 meters.
They must be  rigid  and accept  crampons . For good ankle support, take them with  high tops . The  sole should be grippy . And finally, they must be comfortable. Try them out and use them  to get used to them before departure. Do not leave with new shoes!

Gloves, Socks, Hats, Gaiters

Don’t forget these “essentials” which keep your hands, feet and head warm and prevent frostbite and other inconveniences.

Gloves

Two pairs of gloves are useful for a 4000 meters:

• A pair of  wool or synthetic fiber under-gloves  to protect you while maintaining your dexterity in handling the material. In cold weather, she can slip under a pair of  warm gloves
• Warm  “touring ski” type gloves, waterproof and precise offering good grip for the use of ice axes, etc. or, for extreme conditions,   highly compressible mitts .

Cap

Choose a  thin beanie  that is compatible with wearing a helmet. Ideally, take it  windproof  or  fleece-lined  if you have a hood over your protective jacket.

Equip Yourself Appropriately

For a two-day ascent with a night in a refuge, you will need to provide the necessary equipment for accommodation and for the ascent. Trying and knowing your equipment  is essential before starting.

For Accommodation

A sleeping bag sheet

A sleeping bag

If necessary, in case of non-supply of blankets by the refuge.

Food /  An insulated water bottle

At 4000 meters, the need to drink and eat is not always felt. However, it is important to remember to hydrate and eat regularly.

For The Ascent

A backpack

A bag of about  forty liters  is more than enough and will prevent you from bringing the superfluous and weighing you down unnecessarily. Prefer a typical mountain backpack  with the necessary accessories  : ice ax holder, helmet holder, equipment holder…

crampons

The crampons must be  adapted to your running profile and your shoes . It is imperative before each race to adjust or check the adjustment  of your crampons to your shoes to avoid any inconvenience during installation in real conditions.

• At the attachment level  :  strap crampons  are suitable for shoes without overhang,  semi-automatic crampons  for shoes with a rear overhang and  automatic crampons  for shoes with front and rear overhang.
• There are  10 or 12-point crampons  : 10-point crampons are sufficient for a crossing or a glacier hike, the 12-point will offer you more stability for more challenging terrain.
• The  antibotts  are essential to avoid the accumulation of snow under the crampon and lose efficiency.

an ice ax

Bring a  mountaineering or hiking ice axe . A   slightly curved and shorter  mountaineering ice ax will be more effective in the corridors  when hitting and anchoring. A  hiking-type straight ice ax  will suffice for  glacier hikes .

A harness

Safety equipment

Think of the  Crevasse Rescue Kit ,  belay devices ,  pins …

A rope

Choose it with sufficient length to be able to abseil.

A mountaineering helmet

Do not forget especially in case of rocky passages with risk of falling rock. The  helmet  is to be put on as soon as you are on the glacier, even if it is flat. It protects your head in the event of a fall into a crevasse or when passing near rock faces.

A pair of telescopic poles

They will help you  climb the peaks  by relieving your legs and providing you with more  stability on the descent .

A headlamp

Take new batteries and spare batteries to avoid failure.

Goggles/mask

Choose  high protection sunglasses  (category 4) and take a  ski mask  in case of snow and wind.

A multi-purpose knife

A protective cover for the backpack

A small individual pharmacy

A tube of total sunscreen sunscreen and a high protection lipstick

A charged cell phone

Study Your Race

It is strongly recommended to leave accompanied by a  high mountain guide  to embark on the ascent of a 4000 meters. As with any alpine practice, preparation for the race before the outing is essential to avoid trouble once in the field. It is therefore advisable to:

Choose A Suitable Race

Before choosing a race and taking the start, find out about  the level, the commitment, the approach to the race … at the  refuges ,  mountain guide  and  rescue offices .

Check The Weather Conditions

In the same way, remember to check the weather a few days before departure on  specialized sites  and from  mountain professionals .

In any case, inform those around you of the chosen race, as well as the duration and times you have set.

Good race !